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RM Robert Moss Charleston, South Carolina writer on food, drink and travel, and Contributing Barbecue Editor at Southern Living.

“You never ate barbecue ribs in the 19th century because … you either ate a barbecue, you ate the whole animal, right? The ribs would be in it, but you wouldn't get a slab of ribs. That really came about with meat packing in the early 20th century. … They used to be the cheapest cut of meat you could find. … They had actually dumped them into the Ohio River by the wagon load because they had so many ribs they literally could not give them away.”

BBQ Nation · Food & Beverage · November 2026

“You never ate barbecue ribs in the 19th century because … you either ate a barbecue, you ate the whole animal, right? The ribs would be in it, but you wouldn't get a slab of ribs. That really came about with meat packing in the early 20th century. … They used to be the cheapest cut of meat you could find. … They had actually dumped them into the Ohio River by the wagon load because they had so many ribs they literally could not give them away.” — Robert Moss, BBQ Nation

Context

Asked what surprised him most while revising his history of barbecue, the historian points to ribs: a cut so unwanted in the 19th century that meat packers dumped them in the river.

Transcript

BBQ Nation Around 38:07 into the episode
Robert Moss

So you would go bring your bucket and filled full of beer. So I think a bucket of beer and a bucket of barbecue would be a pretty good combination for, like, say, Labor Day or something like that. Man,

Jeff Tracy

…research and stuff? I mean, I am assuming, having talked to you a few times, that you never really stopped doing the research. You just kept going on with your normal activities and you would find more stuff. But was there one thing in particular that you went, wow, I didn't even dream about that?

Robert Moss

…stories of him picking, didn't take out ribs from a favorite rib joint and eating them on the train with all his Yankee buddies and drinking beer after the games on the way back to New York or wherever they were headed. So the whole story of ribs is just one I hadn't really thought about that much. But determined that ribs sort of just blossomed in the early 20th century as this American thing. They used to be the cheapest cut of meat you could find. In fact, the stockhouses in Cincinnati back in the 19th century, they couldn't sell them. They couldn't pack them and sell the ribs. They wouldn't fit in the barrels. And they had more than they gave them away to the boarding house owners to cook. And then ones they couldn't give away, they had actually dumped into the Ohio River by the wagon load because they had so many ribs they literally…

Jeff Tracy

Wow. And of course,

Robert Moss

now ribs cost a leg of pork there.

Jeff Tracy

And Robert, thanks for being with us. And I look forward to talking to you here on after hours, just a couple minutes.

Speaker names come from our own diarization. The position is estimated from where the line sits in the episode.

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