Robert Moss

Things Robert Says on Podcasts

Charleston, South Carolina writer on food, drink and travel, and Contributing Barbecue Editor at Southern Living. Former restaurant critic for the Post & Courier. Author of Barbecue: The History of an American Institution, Southern Spirits, The Lost Southern Chefs and The Roffignac, and a judge at barbecue competitions including the Jack Daniel's World Championship. A regular segment guest on The BBQ Central Show, where he covers barbecue history, contests and the Michelin guide. Has also appeared on BBQ Nation.

Where to Find Them

Robert Moss hosts The BBQ Central Show . They have also been a guest on BBQ Nation (2 times) and BBQ Interview Series - Kevin’s BBQ Joints .

Recently: “Robert Moss - Author and BBQ Historian - Encore” on BBQ Nation (November 2026); “The Grill Brush Royale (No Cheese) and The Jack BBQ Contest Recap (From a Judge)” on The BBQ Central Show (October 2026); “Pitmasters Contestants: Connie DeSousa and John Jackson and Jelly Covered Cows...” on The BBQ Central Show (August 2026); “Cigar Wrapper Talk With Mr. J; Robert Moss Brings The Mustard Based TRUTH!!” on The BBQ Central Show (August 2026); “CEO of Weber/Blackstone - Roger Dahle” on The BBQ Central Show (July 2026); “Hasty Bake Is SEXAAYY! Georgia BBQ Is REAL BBQ...” on The BBQ Central Show (July 2026).

What They Said

“At first, the temperance folks tried to ban barbecues or at least shame people into not going. But then they realized, well, people like the barbecue part. Let's just get rid of the whiskey. So they started holding cold water barbecues.” — Robert Moss, BBQ Nation

On 1830s-40s barbecues, which were rough, whiskey-soaked Fourth of July parties, and how the temperance movement adapted rather than fought them.

BBQ Nation · 2026-11-07 Permalink → Listen →
BBQ Nation Around 32:24 into the episode
Robert Moss

can probably see a pattern in what I write about. Yeah, I get it. Things that are fun to research.

Jeff Tracy

…And it really wasn't the Cary Nation type temperance days. It was before that because down in the South. Yeah, there were some real areas of the Southern Bible Bible Belt, if you will, that they, you know, no firewater, no nothing. You wanted cold water, maybe lemonade if you really were a good

Robert Moss

…at was the barbecue because the barbecue was basically a giant outdoor party. Sure. Very male, very rough. And what you see is because toasting was such a natural part of barbecue, particularly at the 4th of July, after everybody ate, there'd be round after round of toasts where everybody was toasting to America, to George Washington, to the Constitution, and of course, chugging back whiskey. At first, the temperance folks tried to ban barbecues or at least shame people into not going. But then they realized, well, people like the barbecue part. Let's just get rid of the whiskey. So they started holding cold water barbecues. And they were just like any other barbecue. You'd have the same big old pits and animals cooked on it. If it was Fourth of July, there'd be the speeches and the patriotic songs, and there'd be toasts, but all they would have would be spring water. In fact, the accounts were to say they were cold water toasts. So you would still toast George Washington and the flag and the Constitution, but it…

Jeff Tracy

That sounds boring as hell.

Robert Moss

Yeah, it doesn't sound nearly as much fun to me. At least you get barbecue. That's got to be cool.

Jeff Tracy

This coming, folks, from the guy who wrote the history of bourbon and how bourbon got its name. You remember that now. The other thing we talked about too off here, bring your own bucket to the barbecue. I loved that because I actually know people that they didn't bring their own bucket, but they…

Speaker names come from our own diarization. The position is estimated from where the line sits in the episode.
“Some of the most notable slave revolts, like Gabriel's Rebellion and Nat Turner's Rebellion, were actually planned at barbecues. … The enslaved workers would be using a barbecue gathering together as sort of an excuse, but they were actually plotting revolt.” — Robert Moss, BBQ Nation

Asked whether plantation barbecues were a kindness or a means of control, he says the history is complicated, and that the gatherings were later curtailed out of fear of revolt.

BBQ Nation · 2026-11-07 Permalink → Listen →
BBQ Nation Around 25:15 into the episode
Robert Moss

Yeah, I think it's absolutely wonderful. I love tracing. I love genealogy in general and sort of using that same kind of technique to trace the barbecue genealogy from one pit master back to another, back to another, before them.

Jeff Tracy

…about that because I'm not that familiar with it. But it seemed to me they could have a good time. They usually didn't drink or anything. There was no alcohol normally in a lot of those. But it seemed to be a big party just for them. But they could invite friends from other plantations and stuff.

Robert Moss

…is always sort of a mixed thing because, yes, the enslaved workers would host their own barbecues. Sometimes we're allowed to raise their own animals or might be given a pig, would cook for Christmas and celebration barbecues. But also, you know, some of the most notable slave revolts, like Gabrielle's Rebellion and Nat Turner's Rebellion, were actually planned at barbecues. And, you know, so the enslaved workers would be using a barbecue gathering together as sort of an excuse, but they were actually plotting revolt. And in Virginia, in particular, that got really sharply curtailed after the 1830s. And very much then, barbecues became a, I mean, everyone likes going to barbecue and eating it. It's hard to not like that. Right. But you're right. It was very complicated because it was in many ways a means of control or sort of like, oh, yeah, one day a year, we'll throw a party for you. And then, you know, in…

Jeff Tracy

yeah, next day it was back to the cotton fields and the stocks.

Robert Moss

And if you read the accounts of it, I mean, yes, I think, you know, if you read slave narratives, those were very enjoyable days. It was a celebration, but they're usually bookended by some very, very disturbing passages about the conditions before and after that day. So it's pretty, pretty clear…

Jeff Tracy

going to take another break. Robert and I will be back, and I'm going to get Robert to stick around for the after hours because this is great stuff. You're listening to Barbecue Nation on the Sun BGI Radio Network.

Speaker names come from our own diarization. The position is estimated from where the line sits in the episode.
“You never ate barbecue ribs in the 19th century because … you either ate a barbecue, you ate the whole animal, right? The ribs would be in it, but you wouldn't get a slab of ribs. That really came about with meat packing in the early 20th century. … They used to be the cheapest cut of meat you could find. … They had actually dumped them into the Ohio River by the wagon load because they had so many ribs they literally could not give them away.” — Robert Moss, BBQ Nation

Asked what surprised him most while revising his history of barbecue, the historian points to ribs: a cut so unwanted in the 19th century that meat packers dumped them in the river.

BBQ Nation · 2026-11-07 Permalink → Listen →
BBQ Nation Around 38:07 into the episode
Robert Moss

So you would go bring your bucket and filled full of beer. So I think a bucket of beer and a bucket of barbecue would be a pretty good combination for, like, say, Labor Day or something like that. Man,

Jeff Tracy

…research and stuff? I mean, I am assuming, having talked to you a few times, that you never really stopped doing the research. You just kept going on with your normal activities and you would find more stuff. But was there one thing in particular that you went, wow, I didn't even dream about that?

Robert Moss

…stories of him picking, didn't take out ribs from a favorite rib joint and eating them on the train with all his Yankee buddies and drinking beer after the games on the way back to New York or wherever they were headed. So the whole story of ribs is just one I hadn't really thought about that much. But determined that ribs sort of just blossomed in the early 20th century as this American thing. They used to be the cheapest cut of meat you could find. In fact, the stockhouses in Cincinnati back in the 19th century, they couldn't sell them. They couldn't pack them and sell the ribs. They wouldn't fit in the barrels. And they had more than they gave them away to the boarding house owners to cook. And then ones they couldn't give away, they had actually dumped into the Ohio River by the wagon load because they had so many ribs they literally…

Jeff Tracy

Wow. And of course,

Robert Moss

now ribs cost a leg of pork there.

Jeff Tracy

And Robert, thanks for being with us. And I look forward to talking to you here on after hours, just a couple minutes.

Speaker names come from our own diarization. The position is estimated from where the line sits in the episode.

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